Holiday Recipe: Brandade Poppers
Jane O’Riordan, co-owner of Domaine de la Terre Rouge/Easton Cellars, is also a talented chef. Here’s her recipe for an unusual and delicious holiday-season appetizer. Jane and her husband, Bill Easton, enjoy it with their Domaine de la Terre Rouge Roussane, but any richly flavored white wine will do.
Brandade, a Provençal warm salt cod and potato mousse, is traditionally served on baguette toasts. These brandade "poppers," with their topping of caviar and creme fraiche, are both more elegant and more decadent and a great way to toast the holidays.
1 lb. dried salt cod, available in specialty grocers (in cryovac or dry-hung)
3 cloves garlic, peeled
1 russet potato, peeled and boiled
1/4 cup milk
1/4 cup olive oil
pepper to taste
croustades - small round cracker shells sold by the box in specialty food stores (You can substitute small toasts, but the croustades are worth finding.)
Crème fraiche
Golden caviar
Two days before you wish to eat the brandade, place the salt cod in a plastic container. Cover with water, seal the container and refrigerate. Change the water several times over the next two days. This will leach out the excess salt before cooking.
Remove the cod from the soaking water and rinse. Place in a large flat pan, cover with water, cover the pan and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool in the water.
In a food processor, mince the garlic cloves. Flake the cod into the processor and puree. Add the cooked potato and a little of the milk. Puree again. With the motor running, add the rest of the milk in a slow stream, and then the olive oil. Keep processing until the mixture is a very smooth paste, like fluffy mashed potatoes. You may add a little more milk or oil if necessary.
When ready to eat, spoon the brandade into a small bowl or crock and heat briefly in the microwave until warm through. Spoon into the croustade shells, top with creme fraiche and caviar, and serve while the brandade is still warm.


